Memoirs of a Lucknow boy

Fans of flipkart raise your hands. Isn’t it just wonderful? As they get more and more popular their services only seem to get better. Last week I ordered a book and it arrived the very next day. Wow, thought I.
Then this morning I ordered four books and one of them was delivered just now. How’s that for promptness? I love this concept of piecemeal delivery of the order. It’s like they’re saying, “You start reading this one.. we’ll get the others ASAP”. And the Cash on Delivery Option is a dream.
Apparently, so well have they been doing, that they’ve launched their own courier service.

The book that arrived last week turned out to be a wonderful read — ‘Lucknow Boy A Memoir’ by Vinod Mehta. I am not a great fan of biographies, auto or otherwise. I got a surfeit of them when in school and found a lot of them boring. Then a friend recommended Andre Agassi’s “Open” and I loved it. That was what made me look at ‘Lucknow Boy’. I have to confess though, the Lucknow connection was the clincher, rather than a love for Vinod Mehta’s writings. I’ve seen him a lot of him in various debates on various television channels and have loved him for his irreverence more than anything else. This will sound silly but the picture I have of him is sitting at one such panel flanked by some nattily dressed panel members while carelessly sporting a bright bright red shirt.

As anticipated I did enjoy the Lucknow bit. In fact the first part of the book makes it a must read for every Lucknowite. Somethings he says of Lucknow resonate strongly with me.. sample this..

“Lucknow bestowed on me one priceless gift. It taught me to look at the individual rather than his religion or caste or the tongue he spoke….” Later he adds.. “…for me Muslims meant korma, Christians meant cake and pastries, Sikhs meant hot halwa, Anglo-Indians meant mutton cutlets, Parsees meant dhansak. The solitary Jewish family in town did not come withon my grasp, so I aplogize for excluding them.”… That’s my kind of man, I thought.

Also..
“Some of my better-educated, more doctrinaire friends usually discuss secularism, composite culture and the syncretic tradition…I breathed the secularism they talk of, the composite culture flows in my veins, the syncretic tradition is something I observed daily as I rode my bicycle from Firangi Mahal to Sanyal Club. I didn’t pick up my secularism from books or at university or from protest demos. For me it was a lived reality.”

That’s not all. Armed with a third class BA degree from the Lucknow University he travels to Britain. That’s where he transforms himself from that small frog in the well to a well read, well informed individual. The rest of the book talks about his editorial journey, which is even more more interesting. Someone who starts his journalistic career as the editor of Debonair can’t really be boring. Other than that he launched three newspapers only to be sacked from each of them. I liked his sense of fairness of giving media space to points of view that may/may not coincide with his own. And I loved his candour..from admitting his temper tantrums (“I was under the misapprehension that all great editors had to be ‘difficult'”) to the gravest of errors to a child he abandoned.

Towards the end he gives some ‘Sweeper’s wisdom’ to aspiring journos. I also loved the section ‘Some people’ where he gives his impressions on people ranging from Shobha De to VS Naipaul and Rushdie. Quite enjoyable.
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‘Lucknow Boy’ put me on the path of some more books, which are the ones I ordered today. Mehta heavily recommends George Orwell’s writings. While I’ve read a lot about his books, specially Animal Farm and 1984, I never got down to reading them. Also, I thought it would be fun to read more of Lucknow’s history and so included a book on that too.

‘1984’ was delivered today and I’m looking forward to a quiet evening with the kids down for the day.

Lucknow’s Big Tuesday

“Click”.. the light went on. I squinted at the clock.. 4am. “Just papa,” mumbled I to myself and turned over to catch another 4 hours (at least) of sleep. Well it was Lucknow and I was on vacation.

While waking up at four is my father’s routine.. today was special. The noise level was half a decibel higher as he bathed and readied. Though not a very religious person (he leaves that for the mother), today he will make it to the Hanuman temple before the crowd kicks in. It is ‘Bada Mangal’.

Later in the day I stepped out for a mall-date with my SIL and I was in for a surprise. I had forgotten how Lucknow comes to life on this day. Bada Mangal in Lucknow is a bada deal. If Pune has Ganapati, Lucknow has Bada Mangal. Four Tuesdays of the Jyeshtha month are ‘special’ Lord Hanuman days… that much I knew but I had forgotten the festivities.

First, the food is to die for
The celebrations are something to watch out for. They spill out onto the roads. Bhajans drift on the air from temples big and small. Streets are dotted with pandals every few meters with people distributing the yummiest of foods. We stopped to click some pictures were promptly handed a dona of aloo puri.. hot off the kadhai. Had I been a food writer I would have done better justice to writing about that aloo puri.. all I can say is..eat it to believe it.
There was halwa for dessert and rose sherbet to wash it down with.

No one goes hungry on Bada Mangal

Wish I had a better picture.. the puris are actually being made here
If you’ve been anywhere near Lucknow during the summer you’ll know what a blessing a simple water stall is

According to the Times some even served chowmein while some offered orange squash instead of the traditional rose or khus sherbet. Moving with the times.. eh? But seriously, no one goes hungry on Bada Mangal. Young boys take along carry bags and the organisers gladly filled those up to.

The mela

And there’s more. Roads leading to the main Aliganj temple for kilometers on each side are taken over by stalls selling everything from toys and trinkets to ceramic ware and cutlery. Banglesellers, mehendi wallahs, idol makers, tattoo men line the roads. The crowds are unbelievable. I wish I could have taken the kids but I don’t think I could have handled them with all those goodies on display. Maybe when they’re older..

The story
The Bada Mangal has an interesting story to go with it. Actually there are more than one stories but this one’s my favourite. Apparently the Nawab of Awadh, Shuja Ud Daulah’s wife, Aliya Begum had a dream. Lord Hanuman appeared to her and asked her to build him a temple. When she woke up she directed the Nawab to the site in her dream. The site was excavated and a Hanuman idol was found. The Nawab put in on an elephant to transport it back to his palace. However after a few steps the elephant refused to move and that’s where the temple was built.. that’s the Aliganj temple of Lucknow. Celebrations end today with the concluding Tuesday of the Jyeshtha month.

You know what the most interesting part of the story is? The Aliganj temple has a crescent right over its dome. How’s that for Hindu-Muslim unity?
What’s more, most abattoirs are shut on these Tuesdays and Mutton/Chicken sales hit an all time low. Many Muslims too take up the task of setting up water stalls on Bada Mangal. This really is what Lucknow is all about… what it is famous for — its Ganga Jamuni tehzeeb.

Didn’t I say Lucknow was the best.

Shaame Awadh ….

….is just not the same this time round. Oh no I’m not going to start off on how Lucknow used to be this wonderful place and how it has changed for the worse. I’m really not one of those who leave their hometown only to come back periodically to criticize it.. uff the heat.. uff the crowd.. uff the narrow roads.. uff no roadsense at all.

No no.. that’s not me. However this time round the famous Awadh evenings bear a jaundiced look. Lucknow is crazily dusty. The entire city seems to have been dug up for laying some huge sewer lines. Mammoth pits follow you everywhere, flanked by yellow mountains of mud. The hot May breeze blows the mud into your hair, in your mouth and everywhere else it can possibly get to. One half of the roads has been left for the commuters. Give over some more space to vehicle parking and you’re left with a veritable strip.

‘Sawadhan’ that’s the catch word
Didn’t I say yellow was the predominant colour?

That’s right on the road

Scary, isn’t it?

The two-wheelers climb onto pavements wherever they can, leaving the pedestrians to manage the best they can. A ride on cycle rickshaws, which, by the way, are a huge favourite with the kids, can be safely classified as adventure tourism. The two wheels are never on level ground and you’re left clutching the rickshaw for dear life. If the kids are with you and you have some shopping to hold onto as well remember to carry a few extra pair of hands.

The kids are of course kicked beyond happiness. The ups and downs thrill them no end drawing shrieks of delight at every bump. I’ve had to contend with enough curious/annoyed looks from passers-by who, distracted by the kids’ glee, find themselves stumbling.

In any case our forays outside the house have been severely limited because the kids have decided to fall ill by turns. It seems like they’ve taken it upon themselves to keep me in character, making sure I don’t forget for a moment that I’m an OM. No heading out to those gorgeous shops piled with Lakhnawis, no handing over the kids to the myriad nanis and dadis, no being the dutiful daughter/DIL. They cling to me like glue during the day and keep me awake at night. Sigh!

The good news is that finally now they’re on the mend and I’m ready to step out and step out big. We’re planning this rather ambitious four-day visit to Nainital with an entourage of over 15 uncles and cousins. Keeping fingers crossed.